Come and join our Come Forth for Wildlife volunteer team! The Come Forth for Wildlife project is working throughout the Forth Valley (Falkirk, Stirling and Clackmannanshire) to develop connections to conserve and enhance the unique heritage the area offers. This is being achieved by creating inter-connected habitats for amphibians, reptiles and other wildlife. Fancy getting outdoors? Passionate about wildlife? Want to learn more about amphibians and reptiles? Want to learn practical conservation techniques? Meet new people in your local area? Get in touch and find out about or practical volunteering days! The time commitment will be around 2 hours per month.

Canine Partners is a registered charity that transforms the lives of people with physical disabilities by partnering them with assistance dogs. Our amazing dogs bring a greater independence and quality of life to their partners, offering support, security, companionship, and practical help with everyday household tasks. Canine Partners are looking for caring family homes in Scotland to raise, socialise and train puppies and young dogs up to the age of 18 months old. Ideally with-in 45 minutes’ drive of post code areas FK2, FK3, FK4, FK5, FK6, FK7. By volunteering you will: o Be a valued member of our Charity o Know that you are integrally involved in the care and training of a dog that will change the life of a person waiting for their Canine Partner o Benefit from the companionship and enjoyment of having a dog in your life without lifelong commitment or costs associated with dog ownership o Have the opportunity to meet like-minded people. What is involved We consider this a full time volunteer role as the puppy / dog will live with you from 8 weeks old until it is ready to progress into advanced training. This is between 14 to 18 months old  Be available for and attend training session that will involve: o home visits o virtual online training o one-to-ones o regular group puppy training classes  Regular visits within your local community to various environments to expose the puppy to the following conditions in order to socialise them: busy town environments, car travel, public transport, children, cats, other dogs (different breeds), and other domestic animals. With our guidance, support and advice from our expert trainers, they will teach you the fundamentals of puppy socialisation as well as simple commands and exercises. For example: o Home behaviour o Social behaviour o Walking on a lead o Off lead exercise o General obedience  Maintaining the dog’s health and welfare and, via support and training, to recognise behaviour/health concerns and report them immediately to your Canine Partners trainer. What we require from you  The primary puppy parent must be 18 years or over  Have a dog friendly secure garden and a designated dog toileting area (this will be discussed during interview)  If you are a dog owner, you can have two pet dogs of suitable temperament. Your pet dogs will be assessed as part of the home assessment. They must be over 18 months of age  At home for most of the day and live within 45 minutes of the requested location  Time to provide the puppy with the socialisation and education it needs in order to prepare it for advanced training  Stamina to manage an young active puppy / dog  Access to own transport to travel to classes and training locations on a regular basis  Understand that the dog in your care remains under the ownership of Canine Partners

To help you understand what is expected of this role, please read our Day In The Life Of Kim below, one of our volunteer Poorly Hen Carers... Every BHWT volunteer team has one or more poorly hen carers. In many of our farm collections there will be one or two hens that need an extra bit of TLC and some that need nursing or palliative care. The team collecting the hens from the commercial farm transport these “poorlies” in separate crates to ensure they don’t get injured on the journey back to the rehoming site, nor overlooked in the unloading process. Some poorly carers prefer to take hens with minimal problems; they may be a little bruised or limping and just need time. Others are more seriously challenged and require more help. Poorlies cannot be put in with other hens and need a dedicated coop or utility room where they can recover in peace. Those that cannot stand up I take into my house so I can keep a better eye on them, but they can be kept in a separate coop if you don’t want them in your home. Some need help eating but I always give them a chance to do this themselves before intervening. I soak pellets in critical care mix to see if they can eat and if they don’t then I’ll syringe feed critical care formula every two hours until they perk up. A lot of poorlies are dehydrated so after a few critical care feeds they start to feel better and will eat the soaked pellets. Occasionally a hen will need a warm bath if she is very soiled from being on a cage floor covered in muck. Most hens relax and quite enjoy the process, but some hate it and flap, so you may get wet. I will give arnica baths to help relaxation. For sore skin I use organic antiseptic tea tree cream which I rub in twice a day. I also use this for cuts and bruises. It doesn’t taste very nice so the hen won’t eat it and neither will the others. If a hen has a prolapse I bathe it in tea tree oil as it is a natural antiseptic. I normally keep hens inside to keep them clean but if they’re eating for themselves they can go outside in a separate coop. It’s important to keep prolapses clean, so twice a day I bathe or clean the prolapse with a damp tissue soaked in tea tree oil, until everything goes back in on its own, which can be a few days to a couple of weeks. Each hen is different. Some just want to be cuddled. Those with Peritonitis need a soft bed so they can nestle down in comfort. I have a large plastic laundry basket for this that I put plenty of layers in and make a hole for their tummy. The basket is also useful for very poorly hens as it gives them support and they can see out. I then carry it everywhere with me and so if I go outside they can see the sun. My poorlie hens always sleep in the house for the first night and some stay for longer until they are strong enough to go into a separate hen house and run, however, they can be kept outside as long as they are warm enough and are checked often. For comfort my poorlies sleep in a carry box that I line with numerous fleeces and tea towels. Once they’re on the mend I will put them out during the day and then bring them in at night. My separate hen house is next to the healthy hens' house so they can get used to seeing one another. I don’t usually allow them to mingle for the first two weeks, and even then I stand over them keeping watch. I do short intro sessions, sometimes holding them in while showing them to the other hens to familiarise them. I have ramps on the small low separate house so that those with bad legs and peritonitis can get in and out. Poorly Hen Carers need to be patient and flexible as each hen likes things done a different way. Ideally you need a few separate hen houses or an outbuilding where you can set up individual pens. Hens that have fully recovered can be rehomed in small groups; it is so rewarding seeing them go off to their new homes knowing that you've made a difference in a poorlie hen’s life.

This volunteer role includes all aspects of care including stable, yard and field work, maintenance and rehabiltation work with the horses. No experience needed for non ridden work as full training given. Great opportunity to help loving animals in beautiful countryside, make new friends and gain skills.